*6R* 2017 E. Pira e Figli Chiara "Cannubi" Barolo (Piedmont, IT)

Plums and ripe strawberries with some crushed-stone undertones. Full-bodied and layered with round, rich tannins and an intensely fruity finish. But then, some fine tannins that are cashmere-like. A little tight at the end. From organically grown grapes. Drink after 2024.

Chiara Boschis is a historic proponent of organic farming, and she lobbied to make the entire Cannubi cru a certified organic vineyard. Her 2017 Barolo Cannubi shows terrific balance and clean intensity in a vintage that presented quite a few challenges across the appellation due to the heat and drought, along with other issues such as an unexpected frost in April, but that caused the biggest damage to the lowest elevations. The Cannubi is less overtly fruity than the blended Via Nuova or the Mosconi. Instead, it has a more prominent saline imprint with mineral and crushed limestone. However, the quality of the tannins in this release is superior and silkier, and that added structure and focus give the Cannubi the longest drinking window in my opinion of these three new releases.